sreda, 02. julij 2014

Pianbernardo

Pianbernardo is a small Italian village above Trappa. It has around 10 houses, school and bakery which are the only buildings owned by all the villagers (school was visited last time around 40 years ago and in bakery they still make some pizza once in a while). 
Not the best road but T4 can do it :)
Locals are really friendly. When we came one showed us around the village and offered us to park in front of his house. We could also use his fireplace and house which made cooking in rain much better experience. Strangely he didn't want anything in return, he was just bringing us fresh bread and meet from Trappa. I'm happy friendly people like him exist. 
Village is empty so you can sleep in the middle of it
Pancakes on BBQ
You can access Pianbernardo with 4x4 vehicle or if you drive carefully also T4 will do. Once you get there you will probably not want to go back down in the valley so better take all the staff you need for as long as you can (some forest fruits like blueberries and strongberries you can find in the forest so you can stay up there for a little longer). You can also find mushrooms or if you are really hungry there are also wild boars around.
"Strongberris are everywhere
Best thing about the village? 30 minutes hike and you're at the awesome crag with a nice view and a lot of hard and long routes. Grades are a little off sometimes but like they say in Verante sud topo they shouldn't meter. "Route should be climbed for its beauty, maybe for its history, but never for its grade". I agree with them.
Lower sector is around 30m high
Supernice 6c BS route
Unfortunately there is not many easy BS routes there yet. So we recommend to visit also the area Bagnasco. It's a conglomerate area on the way to Pianbernardo just next to the road with routes from 3-8a, all nicely bolted and super nice to climb.
Good also for resting after long drive
Bagnasco is for everyone
View from our new home. Will go back. Soon.

sreda, 18. junij 2014

Bala Bala

Abella de Conca

It was a long time since I was in Spain so Nicolas Durand dind't have much problems inviting me there. He only promised me he has a lot of rocks for opening new routes and also enough of existing ones. So I booked a plane ticket and went there to see if it's relay as good as it looks on the photos. It was even better. Rocks everywhere, facing in every direction and different heights, shapes...
Abella in the middle of everything

Nico explaining us the plan of the day

In a little more than one week I just didn't want to take a day off since there are so many things to do. I climbed some cool projects like Somni Sauna super nice 30m long slightly overhanging 8c route which does't get any easier until you reach the final jug.
Canyon sector with Somni Sauna

I also opened 8 new routes. Endless journey is 60m long 8b and its long. Even for me :). Next to it I bolted another 50m mega line and I think it's much harder. Other routes are a bit easier but still fun to climb.
Red is Endless journey 8b, Blue line is still a project

It will be be perfect route for onsight. I think. 

Sectors anywhere you look

Arches. Yes you can climb here.



It's better than it looks :)

More about what we were doing there you can find on Abella climb.

Thank you Nico again for inviting me, I'll get back as soon as possible.

Pajaro electronico

četrtek, 22. maj 2014

Bala Bala

I did it, today I climbed the longest route in Osp. It's around 180m long and hardest pitch is 50m long 8b with some awesome moves on big stalactites. The rest of the route is a bit easier but still very good to climb.

More about the route in the video. Coming soon...

ponedeljek, 12. maj 2014

Val Pennavaira - spring holidays 2014

Last week in April we spent some time in Val Pennavaira. The valley is next to very well known Finale Ligure. But we wanted to see something less famous and with good rock for climbing and relaxing.
Our base camp was in Veravo, next to the most concentrated climbing spots. Unfortunately we couldn’t buy new topo, which is still unavailable and the old one was sold out, so we had to photo it from other climbers and we found a few sectors in Andonno e Cunesese guidebook.
Free camping by the church

Our first stop was shady and windy Cineplex wall, which we visited twice. Sector offers you to climb from easy slaby routes to 8c overhanging hard routes.
One of the best sectors there: Cineplex
Dodaj napis
Bonsai
Next day we visited very nice crag Red Up, a few kilometers up to the valley. Alto is the village with population of 120 people and has great relaxing ambient for climbing, meditation or meeting friendly local people and having bbq all night.
Red up
Red up
Sleeping place
Welcome party
In Red Up sector you can climb on great overhanging tufas, which are going 40m high.
Right part of the wall has good easier routes, graded 6a -7a, some of them are still under construction so be careful if all the bolts are glued in before you use them.
For rainy day we chose the Alto grottone sector, on opposite side of the Red Up. Very overhanging wall with cheeped holds, not often visited sector, but there was nothing else to do for a rainy day like this.
Grottone. Chiped but good for training
Because the weather was unstable, we climbed every day and expect that tomorrow will be impossible to climb, so visited as many sectors as possible in one day. One day we climbed in Antro del Castelbianco, the oldest sector in the valley. Sunny and slippery overhanging wall was quite good, but swimming in the river was better idea to do.
Some routes were a bit wet
Others less
So we went for swimming :)
Next day we stopped in Erboristeria and when we climbed all the routes there we moved to Terminal. The sectors are very close to each other, so we could climb in both. Especially in afternoon in Terminal, when the wall gets in the shade, there was nobody else climbing there. It is really funny when the sun is burning, everybody climbs, and nobody when conditions are perfect. Funny people J !!???
Erboristeria
Terminal
Finale Ligure we choose for the last two days of our holidays. In Grotti Perti we were invited by Martina and Nico Potard and we spent a great climbing day on white and pockety overhanging wall. The next stop before we left the valley was sector Anfitiatro. Also climbing on pockets and very slippery wall and we will be happy to skip this one next time we get back.
8b in Grotti Perti
Anfiteatro

All together in one week I got 44 stones, all of them on sight and the hardest were:
Torre pendente 8b
Sud pacifico 8b
Dottoressa malvasia 8a
Butt bongo 8b
Aloe 8a
? 8a?
? 8a
Old boy 8b
8a+
Rustegu 8a
Gira vuelta 8a

So holydays are over and now it was time to go back to Buzet where we continued with climbing and bolting new lines. We did three new routes: 6b, 7b and 8b, all of them more than 30m high on excellent rock and waiting for the 2nd ascent.
Making new route in HC
8b still waiting for FA

sreda, 19. marec 2014

Climbing in Buzet

Last weekend we found cool new climbing destination close to our home. It is a place we visited before for many times but we didn't know it has so much routes and sectors already ready to climb. And the best thing is it still has a lot of potential for some hard and easy routes.

We were climbing hard routes in Pandora where we also opened two new lines. In the afternoon we were climbing easier routes 5 kilometers away on the way to Istrske toplice. For me some of the best easy climbs. Other sectors we are going to visit this week (not all. Its too much of them)


Izi in Avatar 8b
New project
Blob 8c
Sector with easier routes
Monday I charged batteries on my fancy new Bosch drilling machine so I could start working on my next project. Hard multi pitch route in Osp, starting in the cave and going all the way to the top of the wall. It's almost finished so now it's time to climb it... video coming soon
Somewhere in the middle
This is just the upper partž
After 12 hours of "hard" work