sobota, 13. september 2014
Montenegro is a land of rocks. Everywhere you look you can see cool sectors with endless possibilities for rock climbing. After driving kilometers and just looking at this routeless rocks we finally came to Smokovac. Around 70 routes already bolted on one side of the canyon and some more on the other side. Soon we started to climb and we enjoyed all of the routes until we were skinless.
|The hardest route in Montenegro|
|Neverovatni dinosauri 8b+|
Next day I already climbed all the hardest routes there so I decided to make myself a new one. I saw a nice 28m tufa line so I started bolting. The same day I tried it and I did it in my first try. So again no more routes for me… Where is the next one? Just on the left of it. One more day of bolting and now I had a little more work with it. It turned out to be a little harder and even better and it had a funny crux just before the top. Few meters on the left I already saw the next line but it will have to wait boltless until I return. Hopefully soon.
|New project in Maurovo|
|It was too hard to do in one day|
|Upper part is super nice and super hard. I ike it|
In Macedonia the story repeated. Driving through the canyon and just looking at endless possibilities for climbing. This time our sector was a big cave in Mavrovo where you can climb all day even if it’s raining all the time. Soon I climbed the hardest route there so the next day I brought my Bosch drilling machine with me. This time I decided to do something harder so I bolted 50m long big overhang with just enough holds to get to the top (I hope). First part is “just” around 8c and then it starts. I had hard times just getting to the top from quickdraw to quickdraw and I was super happy when I get there. It’s hard and it will have to wait for the next time I get back a bit stronger. Like any other place we visited on this trip: “I can’t wait to get back”.
And now the Petzl Roctrip starts. Yeah, see you in Romania.
ponedeljek, 01. september 2014
We left rainy Slovenia on 14.8. and drove to Croatia. Our first stop was in Sveti Rok where we wanted to check one crag that we saw from road long time ago.
|SV. Rok could be a nice climbing area|
In Velebit we were climbing in Prezid. Routes there were more for Anja so I was just enjoying the view and belaying. I was saving myself for Split.
|Prezid, rest from driving|
Markezine Grede we visited already few years ago and we new we can't skip them this time. On the first day I did OSFA (on sight, first ascent) of Full Contact 8a+ and on the second I tried another one but with no luck. There is still many more routes there, so I will be back.
|Still a project in Markezine|
|Bouldering in Biokovo|
One of the best things in Split was DWS trip to Čiovo organised by Daniel Piccini Avantura Adventures-Split. Unforgettable experience with driving around with sailing boat and climbing all day long. Perfect rock with perfect holds and walls just high enough for playing around or trying something harder.
|Warm up traverses with best jugs ever|
|Jumps wre what I was looking for|
Now it was time for a little bigger project I had in my mind for a few years now. Big wall in Drašnice. Around there you can find many amazing crags just waiting to be bolted but this one is somehow special. 220m high overhang with big awesome tufas everywhere. It was not hard to find a line since you can see it from the road or sea while you are swimming. I needed 4 days to put all the bolts in and now it's ready for climbing. It will be graded somewhere around 8b, maybe a little more. But who cares last time it was fun just jumaring up on it and enjoying the view :)
|Big wall in Drašnice|
Our road went on to Mostar for čevapčiči and further down south to Montenegro where we had to stop in Durmitor while we saw some cool boulders by the road. After we destroyed all our skin we decided to continue to Podgorica. On the way we couldn't believe what we saw. Rocks everywhere and we just wanted to climb them all. We finally got to Smokovac where one sector is already bolted with around 70 routes. Super solid rock with tufas and holds everywhere. Only thing I was missing were some harder routes so I took my drilling machine and made one. Again it was one of the best lines I ever bolted and for sure the best one yesterday :). It turned out to be somewhere around 8b and it's the hardest route in Montenegro at the moment. "Unfortunately" I climbed it in the first try so now I have to make a new one. I'm gonna do it just left of it today. There is enough space and one line looks better than other.
|New boulders are always fun|
|Marwan Maayta joined us from Jordan|
|Smoki - Smokovac has a lot of potential. This is just one of the crags|
|Hardest route in Montenegro, Rotor & Wings 8b|
OK enough writing, back to climbing and bolting.
ponedeljek, 11. avgust 2014
In Salt Lake City was for the second time Psicobloc competition and this year I had a chance to compete there as well. All I can say is it was one of the best comps I attended so far. It was super fun to compete and I wish there will be more comps like this in the future.
All the detail you can find here:
petek, 08. avgust 2014
|Barkes at Zipline in Pazin|
A week ago I spent preparing for the upcoming events. First we went to Kamenjak where I was training for DWS competition in Salt Lake City. It was fun but I wanted to climb something higher and harder. We found this close to Pula and I was able to get pumped there.
|DWS in Stoja|
Next part of preparation was for big Petzl roctrip. We went to Pazin where we were looking for new lines where I could bolt something. And yes, I found something and I'll be back with my drilling machine.
On the way back we were too lazy so instead of walking we took zipline. Barkues was the one who enjoyed it the most :-)
A lot of time on our trip we will spend climbing close to a see or some lake so we have to be prepered also for swimming and laying on a bech. So after this we went to prepare ourselves also for this.
|Zarečki krov- Pazin|
|Enna at zipline|
|big preparation !!!|
|on the way home|
Right now I am in Salt Lake City, ready for big psicocomp: http://psicocomp.com/watch-live/
Wish me luck!
sreda, 02. julij 2014
Pianbernardo is a small Italian village above Trappa. It has around 10 houses, school and bakery which are the only buildings owned by all the villagers (school was visited last time around 40 years ago and in bakery they still make some pizza once in a while).
|Not the best road but T4 can do it :)|
Locals are really friendly. When we came one showed us around the village and offered us to park in front of his house. We could also use his fireplace and house which made cooking in rain much better experience. Strangely he didn't want anything in return, he was just bringing us fresh bread and meet from Trappa. I'm happy friendly people like him exist.
|Village is empty so you can sleep in the middle of it|
|Pancakes on BBQ|
You can access Pianbernardo with 4x4 vehicle or if you drive carefully also T4 will do. Once you get there you will probably not want to go back down in the valley so better take all the staff you need for as long as you can (some forest fruits like blueberries and strongberries you can find in the forest so you can stay up there for a little longer). You can also find mushrooms or if you are really hungry there are also wild boars around.
|"Strongberris are everywhere|
Best thing about the village? 30 minutes hike and you're at the awesome crag with a nice view and a lot of hard and long routes. Grades are a little off sometimes but like they say in Verante sud topo they shouldn't meter. "Route should be climbed for its beauty, maybe for its history, but never for its grade". I agree with them.
|Lower sector is around 30m high|
|Supernice 6c BS route|
Unfortunately there is not many easy BS routes there yet. So we recommend to visit also the area Bagnasco. It's a conglomerate area on the way to Pianbernardo just next to the road with routes from 3-8a, all nicely bolted and super nice to climb.
|Good also for resting after long drive|
|Bagnasco is for everyone|
|View from our new home. Will go back. Soon.|