Strani

sobota, 13. september 2014

Montenegro and Macedonia

Montenegro is a land of rocks. Everywhere you look you can see cool sectors with endless possibilities for rock climbing. After driving kilometers and just looking at this routeless rocks we finally came to Smokovac. Around 70 routes already bolted on one side of the canyon and some more on the other side. Soon we started to climb and we enjoyed all of the routes until we were skinless.
The hardest route in Montenegro
Neverovatni dinosauri 8b+
Rotor & Wings 8b
Next day I already climbed all the hardest routes there so I decided to make myself a new one. I saw a nice 28m tufa line so I started bolting. The same day I tried it and I did it in my first try. So again no more routes for me… Where is the next one? Just on the left of it. One more day of bolting and now I had a little more work with it. It turned out to be a little harder and even better and it had a funny crux just before the top. Few meters on the left I already saw the next line but it will have to wait boltless until I return. Hopefully soon.
New project in Maurovo

It was too hard to do in one day

Upper part is super nice and super hard. I ike it
In Macedonia the story repeated. Driving through the canyon and just looking at endless possibilities for climbing. This time our sector was a big cave in Mavrovo where you can climb all day even if it’s raining all the time. Soon I climbed the hardest route there so the next day I brought my Bosch drilling machine with me. This time I decided to do something harder so I bolted 50m long big overhang with just enough holds to get to the top (I hope). First part is “just” around 8c and then it starts. I had hard times just getting to the top from quickdraw to quickdraw and I was super happy when I get there. It’s hard and it will have to wait for the next time I get back a bit stronger. Like any other place we visited on this trip: “I can’t wait to get back”.
Our hotel (this time we were not sleeping in a car)

And now the Petzl Roctrip starts. Yeah, see you in Romania.

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