Rock climbing in October

Last few months I had a lot of competitions so I decided for October to spent more time rock climbing. It started with TNF festival on Kalymnos. First, there was a few days of "warming up" and climbing in different sectors around the island. There were a lot of new routes and sectors since I've been there last time so I had a lot to do.

Grande Grotta and Spartan wall

TNF Festival was a cool event where they prepared one new climbing area for invited climbers. Like some rock junkies the race started already at the hotel with scooters and we were racing who will be the first at the crag. Running up and start climbing as soon as possible. We wanted to do as many routes as possible before the sun came to the wall. This happened a little too soon but still Megos managed to finish all four of our project routes. Next day they didn't let us climb in this sector so we took a rest day and drove around the island for some sightseeing and swimming. Second day in project wall I started to climb early so I could do all the routes. I finished the last one just before the sun came into the wall and after was just to hot to climb. So we went swimming again. Finishing party was awesome. Yeah

When I came back home I just packed my staff and continue traveling to Turkey. There we were opening routes in one super nice new sector. It was a lot of work but it was worth it. We did a lot of cool routes that were just amazing to climb. And there is space for more...

Our first home in Turkey

When we finished with "hard work" we moved to Olympos for local climbing festival. Another place where they have a lot of rocks and routes for enjoying next to the sea.

2nd home in Olympos

One of the many sectors

DWS wal in Olympos

Final route before I went back home

Competition month

Whose feet are?

Last month I didn't publish much on my blog but this doesn't mean nothing was happening and I was just sitting at home eating chips and drinking beer. I was climbing a all the time, mostly training and preparing for comps. There again I wasn't so lucky in Münich. I failed already in qualifications so I went climbing in Boulderwelt. There soon I felt much better since they had more boulders I could do in one day.

One week after comp we used time for training with the rest of the team in Boulderwelt in Münich and Rregensburd and than we left with train to European championship in Eindhoven. Here I was climbing a little better and I qualified to the semifinals. But again here I did some small mistakes and I had to be happy with 11th place.

When we came home from EC I didn't have much time to train. One day and than we left to Arco. I was always happy to participate in this Rockmaster. Somehow it was also perfect I had to go through qualifications for boulder and lead since it was a good training I think. Routes and boulders were cool to climb and I qualified with no problem. On master I failed again.

And now the next stop, adidas Rockstars. It will be great event again and I can't wait for it to get started. You can watch it live on http://www.adidas-rockstars.com/live/

Mina 2nd place European championship Eindhoven 2013

Eindhoven  boulder European champion ship

Mina won Legend Award 2013, Arco

Observation the final route

climbing OS final route

study boulder time

Laste, Passo Giau and Valle di Daone

Gusela on the left and behind Tofana.

To escape from summer heat we decided to go climbing in Dolomites. Our first stop was in climbing area Laste where you can enjoy beautiful long sport routes. 3 days of hard and technical routes were perfect warm-up for multi pitch in Dolomites. Locals say that is the best crag in Dolomites.

The weather forcast was perfect for visiting mountains. This time my wife selected some hard and some easy routes from passo Giau. First route should be Via Calispera in Torre Dusso but unfortunately the description of approach is tricky and it was a shame that we couldn't find the route. I hope that on Planetmountain they would write approach info so it would be easier to understand it and there are two valleys of Carnera and not just one. We picked the wrong one :)

Luckily we met Pietro from Cortina, who recommended to climb Gusela with easy approach logistics and finding route. The next day we went to this wall and found it quickly and also the routes were there. We decided what to do by the way it looked and climbed it. It was very nice route even if we didn't know what we climbed. I freed the route and my wife jumared it all the way. The system of ascender was properly installed, so now we can go climb even longer routes. At home we found what we climbed, Fatta e rifatta 7c 200m.

The following day we decided to do easier route, named via Bolognesi IV+ 300m in Lastoni di Formin, traditional route and a little difficult to find the way up in chimneys and cracks. A little shower below the top was to early at 11 o'clock but without lighting. Descend was very beautiful, but long, all around the wall , took us 3 hours to the car park and well deserved beer.

The rest of the days we decided to go bouldering in val Daone, wich is perfect place to rest and swim in the river. Climbing conditions were a bit to hot so we went one multi pitch route in cascate di Danerba, route Cavalcando l´orso 5c 300 m on sunny day. Ufffff. That was hot.

In the afternoons we were climbing in boulder area in woods. The valley is very nice and friendly to stay for a while and chill.

The vacation some days ended, so we had to go back home and work. See you next time. 

Laste

cleaning the bottom of the route

Laste

Picnic area by the Laste

barkec pa našel svizce..

najina stena ????

dolomiti...

našla lep razgled, stene pa ne....

base camp on passo Giau

skica za Guselo, narisal Pietro.

pogled na Lostoni di formin za naslednji dan

pogled iz Gusele.

na vrhu Lastoni di Formin

big wall in valle di Daone.

Valle di Daone- Nudole

Hair cutting