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torek, 14. julij 2015

Summer climbing on 2600m and 8b+ OS

In the summer is usually hard to climb in ordinary climbing areas so we had to find some other places where we cold enjoy rock climbing without struggling with the heat. So last weekend we went climbing some multipitch routes in Val Bruna in Italy. First we had to walk for a few hours but than we were rewarded with nice fresh air and cool long routes. We stayed up there sleeping under the boulder for three days and than unfortunately we had to walk back down to the valley.
Back down to the valey

Another week of incredible heat was a good motivation for another walk in Italian mountains. We went to Avosantis where you have a lake and amazing solid grey limestone routes. Most of them are slaby but there are also some vertical and slightly overhanging technical routes with small holds and interesting betas waiting to be found. The wall gets in the shade after 4 p.m. so there is plenty of time to chill and wait for perfect conditions.
Perfect summer destination
On internet we found another climbing area in Lienzer Dolomiten in Austria. Roter Turm is a crag on 2600m above see with some harder routes from 7c and all the way until 9a. From the picture in the topo I thought they made a mistake since it doesn't look so good but the grades convinced me to find out some more about this area. Someone said "It's Shit. Don't go there". Luckily I decided to take 5 hour walk and feel the place with my own fingers.
Wall is better for climbing than it looks

In the end it was only 3 hours of walking and for the reward we found a perfect summer crag where you can climb all day even on the sun. Slightly overhanging routes from 30-50 meters long. All of them are nicely bolted and most of them also have all the quickdraws in. By the side we also found some easier BS routes in really good rock.
Enjoying the view

Every route I tried there was amazing and one after another was better. The last one I did was Traumfänger 50m 8b+. Not the hardest or the longest route I did on sight, but definitely it's on the highest altitude.
There ar routes for everyone

After successful climbing day we decided to go to the top of the mountain where Barques did his altitude record on 2702m. Probably he also did 1st dog ascent of Roter Turm.
On the top of Roten Turm 2702m

Way down was another story. I will not explain it, I will just say we got lost and luckily we had rope and helmets with us.
Easy part of the descent

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