Soon after I came to Spain I decided I want to climb one hard route. Chris was trying a cool looking project and it was not hard to convince me to try it as well. It was something new for me to focus on just one project but if I wanted to do it, there was no other way. Luckily I liked a route a lot and I had no problem climbing it for warm up, serious try and cool down.
Joe Mama starts with an easy section with big holds and some crimps which is perfect for warming up. After this part you have a quite good rest and then there is the first hard section with some underclins and long moves and in the end technical reachy traverse to a “good rest” where at the beginning I was not able to rest at all. Up to here the route could be already graded 8c or 8c+ but the hard part was just starting. Few long moves brings you to the main crux of the route with a crazy high dropknee, one final clip and then some small crimps with bad foot holds until the final jump to a big jug. Few more easy moves and the chain is there.
Amazing power endurance route which doesn’t let you rest until the end and I’m happy I finally put some more effort in a single route and climb it at the end.
More you can read on: Rokice link: http://www.rockandice.com/climbing-news/interview-klemen-becan-on-the-first-ascent-of-joe-mama-5-15a