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ponedeljek, 11. marec 2013

Cuenca and Project in Cueva negra

In January we stopped for a few days in Montanejos in Spain. I had some unfinished business there with one project in Puta negra from the year before. I was trying it and in the end on a last try after big fight I fell on the last hard move. I couldn't do one more good try so I said I will get back as soon as possible.
So I decided to take my wife for here birthday on a nice holidays in Spain. It was the easiest way to get back to Montanejos in a big cave where you have only one awesome hard rout to climb :).
We started out travel with car, than with train, than train broke down so we continued with bus, and train again e otro vez con bus until we finally arrived on time on the Traviso airport. Here we got another surprise from the security when they took away our climbing rope. They thought we will rapel down from a plane in the middle of the flight I guess. Luckily on the same plane were also Italian climbers who managed to sneak in a rope and they had extra one for us as well. 

In Valencia it was nice weather with rain, wind and snow so we left as soon as possible to Cuenca. Sleeping in small Seat Ibiza is not as comfortable as in a normal car we normally travel with but it was nice to wake up  in a nice sunny day next to even nicer rocks.

First day we went to sector Alfar which has nice routes for warming up and getting ready for some harder staff. Here I did: Cazaprimeras 8a, Conanel Deltractor 8a and Only for men 8a+ (Anja did not try this one :).

2nd day was time for sector Rincon de la Ermita. Here I warmed up in El ladron de cuerdas 8a and Ondanadas de hostias 8a+/b. Next was Nuria 8c which I failed to climb and soon after I went to the Taladrina 8b+ and did it on sight. It's nice long and pumpy route with a jump at the end. For me it felt a little harder than Nuria. After we went to sector Las Colmenas where we were enjoying the rest of the sunny day.

Next day we went to Valdecabras. Here I did for warm up Franja de Gaza 8a and Ray ban 8a+. To "warm up" some more I did route Totem 8c. Next was Palestina 9a where I fell on on sight attempt but I had good time in it anyway. With a little bit of luck and quickdraws already in it could be also possible to onsight it as well.

Next stop: Albarracin. Climbing for two hours and than it started to rain. Joder... So we continue to Montanejos to try the big project. Also there it was raining a lot and the cave was all totally wet. Nothing dry there not a single hold. Everywhere just water... :(. So we go back to Cuenca. Wipi.

Also in Cuenca was raining a lot but we managed to find with a help of Bonobo one dry route. It was El Intento 8c+/9a. Nice route but I had a good excuse not to do it. It was too humid :)

After this we went to Gandia where we were enjoying nice easier routes on the sun and we were almost swimming in the see. After this we had a nice trip back home to Slovenia without any complications.
Life in T4 is so much easier :)

Sector Alfar and Italian team
Nuria 8c
Nuria 8c
Prepering for the next route
Taladrina 8b+
Taladrina 8b+
Final crux
Casa de escaladores Bonobo
Sector Ermita
OS attempt in Palestina
Next part looks scary :)
And this is why I went to Spain. One big wet cave
Plan B: Swimming in a river in Montanejos...
...and dinner
Photographer from casa Bonobo preparing for the action
El Intento 8c+
Excuse nr.1: It's too wet
Final part of the route
Vamos a la playa....
Now back home, training on plastic and preparing for the comps


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