I always liked to climb in big walls, so when Chris asked me
if I want to join him on Mont Rebei expedition where he had made crazy hard
route some years ago, I was more than happy to take that chance. On the pictures
the wall looked amazing and I couldn’t wait to get there.
|Aragon on the left, Catalonia on the right|
|First view of on the wall|
Congots de Mont Rebei is on the border between Aragon and
Catalonia, separated by the river. The approach is on the Catalonian side and
you need to walk on a nice path for about an hour and then we could see the
wall we wanted to climb in. It was on the other side of the river. Joder.
Without the boat you need to continue another kilometer to get to the bridge
and then return on the Aragon side back to the wall without any paths. Then you
need to climb 2 pitches of another route, and walk down on the other side to
get to the base of the wall and you can finally start climbing. Luckily some
nice people pick us up with a kayak and took us around the corner so we could
skip this climbing and descending part to the wall and it saved us a lot of
time. Next time we returned with a boat. Mucho mejor.
|Monster of Mont Rebei|
|Kayaking is easier than walking|
Route starts with a nice 70m long 6c with a not may protection in it and then you arrive to a big ledge where we made our base camp. From here on
the real climbing starts. Overhanging wall with small crimps and warming up in 9a
is an amazing experience. The pitch is just barely possible so we needed to
work a lot to make all the moves. Next is easier 8b pitch with small one finger
pockets and long moves. If you don’t like monos, forget about this route J
|Second pitch (first from base camp)|
|I still need to figure out how to do 2 moves|
|Last hard move of the pitch, jump, of coarse |
Now you arrive to another “big and comfortable” ledge where
you can relax a bit. From here it starts the best part of the climb. Long technical
moves, small holds and even smaller footholds. I like this pitch, even though it’s
almost impossible to make two good tries in it in one day. 5th
we didn’t try a lot. It has a crazy sideways jump from micro crimps in it. But
to work it out we left it for the next time.
|3rd pitch is easier|
|No rest here|
|I like this place|
To get to the top of the wall we are still missing two more hard
pitches and I hope we’ll get there soon. Hopefully on the next expedition.
|From the second ledge|
|On our small fancy approach boat|