sreda, 19. marec 2014

Climbing in Buzet

Last weekend we found cool new climbing destination close to our home. It is a place we visited before for many times but we didn't know it has so much routes and sectors already ready to climb. And the best thing is it still has a lot of potential for some hard and easy routes.

We were climbing hard routes in Pandora where we also opened two new lines. In the afternoon we were climbing easier routes 5 kilometers away on the way to Istrske toplice. For me some of the best easy climbs. Other sectors we are going to visit this week (not all. Its too much of them)

Izi in Avatar 8b
New project
Blob 8c
Sector with easier routes
Monday I charged batteries on my fancy new Bosch drilling machine so I could start working on my next project. Hard multi pitch route in Osp, starting in the cave and going all the way to the top of the wall. It's almost finished so now it's time to climb it... video coming soon
Somewhere in the middle
This is just the upper partž
After 12 hours of "hard" work

petek, 14. marec 2014


Last weekend we were bouldering in Cresciano and we had really good time. More you can see on the photos:

And now it's time to go to Croatia. See you next week

torek, 4. marec 2014

Big Project - Osp

Almost two years ago I bolted new super line on the left side of the cave. Soon I realized it's going to be hard, probably the hardest one in the cave. When I tried it for the first few times I had no idea how to do all the moves in the first section. I could do only the first two and the rest of 28 moves (to the big rest) were mystery. So I had to hang around on a route for a long time to crack the puzzle. Upper 30 meters of the route is super nice climbing on stalactites and luckily not so hard. Around 8a, 8b I think.
Warm up is possible with the boat

After more and more tries I could finally connect sections together and I got an idea this route could be possible to climb. Than the water came and I couldn't try it anymore. Under the cave was a big lake so I couldn't get to the start of it. When the water was gone and I came back I had to start all over again. I found some crazy new sequences where I didn't know at the end what is up or down. Real 3D climbing.

So now when we had too much of rain in Slovenia I had to find other ways to get to the route. First I tried with a boat. Especially comfortable for a belayer but was hard to stay dry until I started to climb. So next time I made a Tyrolean traverse over the lake and I could get to the project "normally"
Waiting for the rescue

New approach

On Saturday I came in Osp and I went directly to the route (other routes were under water so no warm up). One try to clean it and second one I fell on the last hard move before the rest. It took all the energy out of me so I didn't know if I will be able to try it again. But the rest on the deserted island was good and I tried one more time. Second time I fell in the beginning so I tried again immediately. Fell again on the 30th move. Rest again, eat, drink red bull and I was ready for the next try. This time I was climbing perfectly and I saved some energy for the last hard moves. Was on the limit but I came to the good rest on the stalactite. I was happy but I knew I still had around 30m of route to climb to the top. I was wondering all the time to the top "why didn't they just finish the route after hard part?". When I cliped the chain I knew why: It makes the route so much better.

The route is called Water world and graded 9a. If it's more (or less) others will tell, I know I had great time in it and it was worth making it.
Looking for the next cool line