torek, 28. junij 2016

Papichulo 9a+

Long time ago, when I was still traveling to Spain just for a month I stopped in Oliana for "after driving rest day". After long drive it's easy to be overexcited so I was just climbing without a topo and try to onsight everything. Didn't care of anything, I just wanted to climb and enjoy the day.

One of the routes this day was a bit harder than expected but still I could manage to get to the top with bunch of hanging on each draw. Later I found out it was the famous Papichulo.

Each year I came back I made a try or two in it but than we drove on to the south of Spain, discovering new unknown places. Este año fue diferente. Catalonia was our final destination so I could spend more time projecting in this amazing crag. First I did Joe Mama and than I decided to give Papi a go. After a small break and climbing in different places like Mont Rebei, Coll de Nargo, Figols, Abella, Boixols...

So the conditions got better. Long windy days with shade after 2 were just perfect so I started to get back and enjoy the tranquility of the place. Each attempt I was progressing and soon I started to connect sections together. It's my favorite stile of climbing so it was not hard to get back on the route.

Hardest part for me has been Minichulo. Almost impossible to climb and still it doesn't add much to the grade since you have a comfortable couch to sit just after. From here to the top was more fun. Cool moves, bad rests and pure endurance. Couldn't be better. I like getting pumped and climb like that until I can't move anymore. It was hard, not easy at all. But still I surprised myself with doing it so fast since I was expecting a bigger epic in it. Oh well, there are still harder routs around and I'm sure I'll get what I am looking for :)

More about Papichulo,"trainig" and other things I was doing will be shown in my next video which will get out soon. For now just the trailer will have to do it :)