Every year we try to spend some time ice climbing and this
time we choose for our destination Val di Cogne. But first we decided to “warm
up” in Maltatal. Not bouldering, even though conditions were perfect, we just
went testing our new ice axes. Waking up early in the morning is necessary if
you want to be the first in your climb but even though we were sleeping under
the ice fall we were not the first to enter in it. There was too many things
falling down so we just went to another one. Good choice and we had a great
time in it.
|"Warming up" in Maltatal|
Three days sleeping in the car without heating was enough
and we were ready to go to Cogne. I went there for the first time and I was
surprised how cool it looked. Granite boulders everywhere and again we didn't have
a crash pad with us. Why???
|Snow instead if crash pad|
There is also around 150 ice falls there but some are too
far away in the mountains, others were not done enough or there was just too
many people in them. Anyway we had a great week of climbing in ice and for the
rest days I went bouldering.
Weather was getting warmer and every day we had less ice to choose from. Plan B was dry tooling in small rock just outside village
Cogne. Fun, but still I think I don’t like this so much.
|Dry tooling for the first time|
Higher up the valley ice was still good so we decided to do
something with a bit longer approach. Idea was to try "Repretence" but there was
already too many people in front of us. Not cool when you wake up super early,
walk for two hours and then you are not able to climb what you want. Luckily there
was another ice fall just next to it and nobody was climbing it. It supposed to
be easier but I don’t agree with this. "Monday Money" was much harder than anything else we
have done in Cogne. Another great ice
we climbed was "Patri". Good ice, not to cold, not too hot and with some sunny
parts in the middle. We liked it so much we had to do the last pitch one more
time on top rope just for fun.
|"Monday Money" was free|
|Top rope for training|
|Or just to enjoy |
The last day we were idealess what else we can do so I
decided to try some more of dry tooling. I went for the route "Jedi Master" M11
and I had better time in it that I thought I will. Strange, also this can be pumpy fun. It’s a strange feeling climbing in rock with ice axes but here I think is no other way. Still when I reached the ice I was feeling much better.
Unfortunately I couldn't convince anyone to follow me up there so I had to
finish climbing after the hard pitch. There is still one more easier pitch to do at
the top but this will have to stay for the next time.
|Different than climbing but I got pumped even more|
|The ice part is better with ice axes|
|No I don't like this :)|
While I was finishing climbing there was a big avalanche on
an ice fall just next to us. Luckily two climbers just came out of it and
another two were above it so nobody got hurt. After seeing this we packed our
staff and go back home. Too scary for us and this was probably a sign we have
to go back to rock climbing.
|Looks fun but sounds scary...??|
|On the top of "Monday Money"|