torek, 9. julij 2013

Osp and Croatia

After climbing a lot in Gorges du Tarn I was feeling strong, so I thought I might try my project in Osp again. But first we went to Buzet, where I was climbing some easier stuff. Its's a perfect place to enjoy some nice routes in the shade in hot summer days.
Next day after swimming, we went to Osp. Warming up felt good (80m long 7b, even better than in Tarn :). And than the project. It was harder than I remembered. Anyway after a few trys I could finally do almost all the moves again. To link it... I have to train some more... It's hard...
In Izvor Mirne there is a lot of  nice, easy and hard routes...
...but mostly we are just tourists there, so no climbing photos :)
Sunset from the parking
Waking up by the see
Back to reality
After crux I could do some moves
Easier upper section

sreda, 3. julij 2013

CAF RocTrip Tarn

This year there was no time to swim
One week ago we went to Gorges du Tarn for a Petzl RocTrip. Our journey almost stopped when our car broke down again in Nice. After long waiting for french assistance and some useless driving up and down with the tow truck we finally got a rental car and continue our trip to Millau. We arrived there directly to the party and the cool part of the week started.
First stop on our trip: Nice, higway
Our base camp was in a village Saint Rome de Dolan situated just in the top of the Gorges du Tarn. Organizers took care with the shuttles for the transport to the gorge so our only concern was what to climb. And it was not hard to find some awesome routes there. First sector we visited was Foetus. Here we warmed up with some easier routes and than we went to the sector De que fas a qui?. Awesome long wall that just doesn't stop. Here I tried one 8c but I could't do one move in the middle. The biggest problem was getting down since my rope was just long enough to get to the top. So for the next route I took 200m long rope from Petzl and like this life was much easier. Also quickdraws were all in so It was easier to onsight 75m long Astro Tarn.
Saint Rome de Dolan
Gorges du Tarn

Dessèchement planétaire 8c

Second day I already started with long routes. First with 7a+ 54m. Second 8b 45m and third was one awesome 80m long route La Madoc 8c. It was cool since I did First ascent and there was not much chalk on it so it was more fun to find the possible way up. Good thing in Tarn is you can change the stile of climbing really easy. I did that and went from looong to short and more overhanging routes. I tried one 8c project in sector Oasif with a cool jump at the end. I climbed it next day. 

Final jump
After this I was resting a little bit for the boulder comp on Natural games in Millau so I was mostly just Anja's belay slave. But anyway I did one more 8a+ and one 7b route on sight. So in total I did 13 new routes there. I onsighted 8c (fa), 8b+, 8b, 8a+ and one 8a. I also did 8c and 8b on red point. All of them were awesome, especially the long ones I thought they will newer finsh.

We also visited one cool cave for the rest day
Natural Games: On Friday we had qualifications for a boulder comp. 36 boulders and 6 hours of time. Was a little strange to climb on a plastic but soon I could climb normal again. I did 33 of them and was close for one more but I ran out of time and power. I almost couldn't do after one 7b in Tarn :)
Finals were awesome. around 20.000 spectators and only 3 boulders. But it was enough since they were really hard and we had to fight hard if we wanted to get somewhere. I had a good time although I didn't do any of them.

On Sunday started the journey back  to Slovenia. First with car, than with train, after walking, train again and walking. It would be all good if we wouldn't have so much staff to carry with us. Our car was still in a garage in Nice so we decided to break in and leave the staff we didn't need in our car. On the second way to the car the alarm sounded and we had to run fast :). Than we found a Hostel (5 hours of searching since everything was full), meet some cool and crazy people and finally go to sleep.

Waiting for the train
Next morning toe truck picked us up and took us with our car back to Slovenia. Feels good to be home but kind of sucks to be carles again. 
Back to Slovenia