četrtek, 22. maj 2014

Bala Bala

I did it, today I climbed the longest route in Osp. It's around 180m long and hardest pitch is 50m long 8b with some awesome moves on big stalactites. The rest of the route is a bit easier but still very good to climb.

More about the route in the video. Coming soon...

ponedeljek, 12. maj 2014

Val Pennavaira - spring holidays 2014

Last week in April we spent some time in Val Pennavaira. The valley is next to very well known Finale Ligure. But we wanted to see something less famous and with good rock for climbing and relaxing.
Our base camp was in Veravo, next to the most concentrated climbing spots. Unfortunately we couldn’t buy new topo, which is still unavailable and the old one was sold out, so we had to photo it from other climbers and we found a few sectors in Andonno e Cunesese guidebook.
Free camping by the church

Our first stop was shady and windy Cineplex wall, which we visited twice. Sector offers you to climb from easy slaby routes to 8c overhanging hard routes.
One of the best sectors there: Cineplex
Dodaj napis
Next day we visited very nice crag Red Up, a few kilometers up to the valley. Alto is the village with population of 120 people and has great relaxing ambient for climbing, meditation or meeting friendly local people and having bbq all night.
Red up
Red up
Sleeping place
Welcome party
In Red Up sector you can climb on great overhanging tufas, which are going 40m high.
Right part of the wall has good easier routes, graded 6a -7a, some of them are still under construction so be careful if all the bolts are glued in before you use them.
For rainy day we chose the Alto grottone sector, on opposite side of the Red Up. Very overhanging wall with cheeped holds, not often visited sector, but there was nothing else to do for a rainy day like this.
Grottone. Chiped but good for training
Because the weather was unstable, we climbed every day and expect that tomorrow will be impossible to climb, so visited as many sectors as possible in one day. One day we climbed in Antro del Castelbianco, the oldest sector in the valley. Sunny and slippery overhanging wall was quite good, but swimming in the river was better idea to do.
Some routes were a bit wet
Others less
So we went for swimming :)
Next day we stopped in Erboristeria and when we climbed all the routes there we moved to Terminal. The sectors are very close to each other, so we could climb in both. Especially in afternoon in Terminal, when the wall gets in the shade, there was nobody else climbing there. It is really funny when the sun is burning, everybody climbs, and nobody when conditions are perfect. Funny people J !!???
Finale Ligure we choose for the last two days of our holidays. In Grotti Perti we were invited by Martina and Nico Potard and we spent a great climbing day on white and pockety overhanging wall. The next stop before we left the valley was sector Anfitiatro. Also climbing on pockets and very slippery wall and we will be happy to skip this one next time we get back.
8b in Grotti Perti

All together in one week I got 44 stones, all of them on sight and the hardest were:
Torre pendente 8b
Sud pacifico 8b
Dottoressa malvasia 8a
Butt bongo 8b
Aloe 8a
? 8a?
? 8a
Old boy 8b
Rustegu 8a
Gira vuelta 8a

So holydays are over and now it was time to go back to Buzet where we continued with climbing and bolting new lines. We did three new routes: 6b, 7b and 8b, all of them more than 30m high on excellent rock and waiting for the 2nd ascent.
Making new route in HC
8b still waiting for FA