Montenegro is a land of rocks.
Everywhere you look you can see cool sectors with endless possibilities for
rock climbing. After driving kilometers and just looking at this routeless
rocks we finally came to Smokovac. Around 70 routes already bolted on one side
of the canyon and some more on the other side. Soon we started to climb and we
enjoyed all of the routes until we were skinless.
|The hardest route in Montenegro|
|Neverovatni dinosauri 8b+|
|Rotor & Wings 8b|
Next day I already climbed all
the hardest routes there so I decided to make myself a new one. I saw a nice
28m tufa line so I started bolting. The same day I tried it and I did it in my
first try. So again no more routes for me… Where is the next one? Just on the
left of it. One more day of bolting and now I had a little more work with it.
It turned out to be a little harder and even better and it had a funny crux
just before the top. Few meters on the left I already saw the next line but it
will have to wait boltless until I return. Hopefully soon.
|New project in Maurovo|
|It was too hard to do in one day|
|Upper part is super nice and super hard. I ike it|
In Macedonia the story repeated.
Driving through the canyon and just looking at endless possibilities for
climbing. This time our sector was a big cave in Mavrovo where you can climb
all day even if it’s raining all the time. Soon I climbed the hardest route
there so the next day I brought my Bosch drilling machine with me. This time I
decided to do something harder so I bolted 50m long big overhang with just
enough holds to get to the top (I hope). First part is “just” around 8c and
then it starts. I had hard times just getting to the top from quickdraw to
quickdraw and I was super happy when I get there. It’s hard and it will have to
wait for the next time I get back a bit stronger. Like any other place we
visited on this trip: “I can’t wait to get back”.
|Our hotel (this time we were not sleeping in a car)|
These routes look amazing Kleman!OdgovoriIzbriši
Do you have any guidebook topo of Smokovac?OdgovoriIzbriši