ponedeljek, 1. september 2014

Balkan Trip Part 1

We left rainy Slovenia on 14.8. and drove to Croatia. Our first stop was in Sveti Rok where we wanted to check one crag that we saw from road long time ago. 
SV. Rok could be a nice climbing area
In Velebit we were climbing in Prezid. Routes there were more for Anja so I was just enjoying the view and belaying. I was saving myself for Split.
Prezid, rest from driving
Markezine Grede we visited already few years ago and we new we can't skip them this time. On the first day I did OSFA (on sight, first ascent) of Full Contact 8a+ and on the second I tried another one but with no luck. There is still many more routes there, so I will be back. 
Still a project in Markezine
Bouldering in Biokovo
One of the best things in Split was DWS trip to Čiovo organised by Daniel Piccini Avantura Adventures-Split. Unforgettable experience with driving around with sailing boat and climbing all day long. Perfect rock with perfect holds and walls just high enough for playing around or trying something harder.
Warm up traverses with best jugs ever
Jumps wre what I was looking for
Now it was time for a little bigger project I had in my mind for a few years now. Big wall in Drašnice. Around there you can find many amazing crags just waiting to be bolted but this one is somehow special. 220m high overhang with big awesome tufas everywhere. It was not hard to find a line since you can see it from the road or sea while you are swimming. I needed 4 days to put all the bolts in and now it's ready for climbing. It will be graded somewhere around 8b, maybe a little more. But who cares last time it was fun just jumaring up on it and enjoying the view :)
Big wall in Drašnice
Our road went on to Mostar for čevapčiči and further down south to Montenegro where we had to stop in Durmitor while we saw some cool boulders by the road. After we destroyed all our skin we decided to continue to Podgorica. On the way we couldn't believe what we saw. Rocks everywhere and we just wanted to climb them all. We finally got to Smokovac where one sector is already bolted with around 70 routes. Super solid rock with tufas and holds everywhere. Only thing I was missing were some harder routes so I took my drilling machine and made one. Again it was one of the best lines I ever bolted and for sure the best one yesterday :). It turned out to be somewhere around 8b and it's the hardest route in Montenegro at the moment. "Unfortunately" I climbed it in the first try so now I have to make a new one. I'm gonna do it just left of it today. There is enough space and one line looks better than other.
New boulders are always fun
Marwan Maayta joined us from Jordan
Smoki - Smokovac has a lot of potential. This is just one of the crags
Hardest route in Montenegro, Rotor & Wings 8b

OK enough writing, back to climbing and bolting.

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